The sun finally broke through on Thursday, and dramatic shows from Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein put a final polish on New York Fashion Week.
Ralph Lauren’s 51-piece spring collection unfurled Thursday morning like an American fairy tale. The varied blue tones, ripped denim and page boy caps gave way to pin-striped suits and party dresses reminding everyone that during hard times, it’s still possible to look sharp. Meanwhile, Phi designer Andreas Melbostad created a collection suited to draw out the tough girl in all of us. His black, white and nude color palette set the perfect tone for suede leggings with triangular cutouts, lace up side seams and buckled crop tops with exposed zipper detailing. The bejeweled side panels on a particularly edgy pair of cigarette pants were a fun highlight to an utterly rock-worthy show.
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Despite the overcast skies, designers kept it light and vibrant on Day Seven of fall fashion week. Michael Kors brightened the morning at Bryant Park. His versatile pastel collection included scores of lavender dresses, pistachio tops and aqua separates—and of course a few little black dresses (with tastefully cutout midriffs, sheer hemlines and zipper detailing). Lauren Conrad (and a bevy of paparazzi) showed up early at Nanette Lepore, where hints of neon, pleated trousers and berry-hued dresses warmed up the catwalk underneath chunky neutral knits. Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld and Zac Posen were front and center for Oscar de la Renta’s afternoon show. Models floated down the runway in textured pieces, from black lace gowns, organza confections, eyelet trimmed skirt-suits and crochet dresses, giving uptown girls (and perhaps Michelle Obama?) something to look forward too for spring.
Proenza Schouler closed the day with a truly innovative collection full of clever touches, sublime cuts and a serious sense of humor. Models stomped down the runway in layered dresses and skirts with tromp l’oeil tiers that looked like jackets casually tied around their waists. The racing lines of surfer shorts found their way onto a smart pair of slacks, and there were plenty of tough blazers and breezy skirts to go around. But the highlight of the show was a series of cocktail dresses in vibrant, aquatic patterns adorned with tinsel—assuring that all the most fashionable young starlets will be dressing like Christmas trees next spring.
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Designers rocked out, dressed down and showed off their wild side on day six of fall fashion week. Rodarte went native for their spring collection with warrior painted arms, shredded hemlines, dashes of neon and rope detailing in the models’ hair. Vera Wang showed a bewitching collection with a black and white tie-front capes, shimmering multi link belts and iridescent peacock feather trim. Max Azria showed fluid black-and-white dresses tricked out with slashes, netting and soft architectural overlays. And Badgley Mischka sent out a refined collection, with a cranberry kimono-inspired wrap top and cuffed Bermuda shorts standing out against their array of beaded evening dresses.
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Carolina Herrera rocked the tents with a stunning collection at New York Fashion Week. Jill Stuart and Thakoon dazzled, while Zac Posen dropped a bomb. View our galleries on Sexy Beast.
Day five of fall fashion week opened with Zac Posen’s anticipated Spring collection up at Bryant Park, but ironically Posen himself, with his newly chiseled jaw and end-of-summer tan, was the best-looking thing on the runway. The designer showed a hash of historical references, with many items, like a powder-blue cut-out trench with peacock feathered, widely missing the mark. The morning redeemed itself with Carolina Hererra’s jaw-dropping show, which featured a simple palette, perfectly tailored short-suits and plenty of exotic details–a perfect collection for the modern woman. Donna Karan followed closely behind with a muted color palette and figure-flattering silhouettes, and Thakoon showed draped frocks perfect for a weekend away when the weather starts to warm. Jill Stuart rounded out the day with a nod to mod fashion, with brass hardware bouncing off stark white mini dresses and sexy silver numbers falling like liquid on the body.
Marc Jacobs tickled his audience with a prompt 8pm start over at the armory and teased the naughty side out of his powdery white models with exposed satin knickers, tiered pattern dresses and feminine backless gowns that seduced the likes of Lada Gaga, who watched the runway behind a studded leather S&M inspired eye mask.
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The skies cleared and made way for all the pretty things during the fourth day of fall fashion week on Sunday. Derek Lam sent a playful clash of colors down the runway, though most women will probably forgo the legless numbers in favor of his more wearable shrunken striped blazer and floral minis. Erin Fetherston ducked out of the tents this year and to show at Milk Studios where her lace trimmed satin frocks were the highlight of a romantic collection, complete with sheer gloves and ruffled collars that conjured images of a 1940s boudoir. Meanwhile, up at Bryant Park, Diane von Furstenberg sent her models down the runway in lovely, gilded, Grecian hairpieces and Mediterranean-inspired frocks, andToni Maticevski positioned himself as a go-to for red carpet glamour with a show full of slinky floor length gowns with frothy shoulder detailing and seductive cutout designs—sure to make Rachel Zoe "die" as she hunts down garments for awards-show season. VIEW OUR GALLERY>>
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Project Runway winner Christian Siriano dropped jaws at Bryant Park with a stunning collection of colorful sportswear and elaborate tiered, beautifully patterned gowns fit for Oscar night. Alexander Wang followed his trend-setting fall collection with another for spring, full of smart, youthful designs. Scott Sternberg showed beach-themed mens' and womens' collections, riffing on his ribbon skirt from last year and introducing sweat-shorts for men. Richard Chai and Chado Ralph Rucci also made strong showings on a busy, rainy day in New York. VIEW OUR GALLERY >>
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Fashion lothario Yigal Azrouel opted for an unusually understated spring collection that owed a great debt to early Alexander Wang, To beats spun by her sister, DJ Samantha Ronson, Charlotte Ronson showed a sophisticated collection heavy on '80s influences, full of heavy shoulders and ruched half-leggings sure to be unbiquitous in 2010. Michelle Obama's favorite, the 26-year-old wunderkind Jason Wu, sent a collection of smart, fluid dresses perfect for state functions down the runway. VIEW OUR GALLERY >>
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Gwen Stefani presented her always raucous L.A.M.B. line, which picked up the neon '80s streak and ran with it straight to jazzercise class. Rachel Comey debuted a collection ideally suited to long spring afternoons on the shore in Maine, full of mixed patterns, stylish raincoats and stiff cotton briefs. Downtown darling Vena Cava showed off a structured collection, full of modern lines and alluring glimpses of skin. VIEW OUR GALLERY >>
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