What do you like to drink after a shift? “Beer and a shot, every time. Nothing beats an ice- cold (I will also accept lukewarm, depending on the shift), bottom-end-of-the-spectrum, generic lager-type beverage accompanied with a neat pour, the larger the better, of the brown stuff. I should point out that I am an equal opportunity whiskey drinker, but tend to sway towards the Irish and the Scotch. That being said, I am also partial to bourbon, rye and, thinking about it, I am also fine with what’s in the well—depending on the circumstance.”
What is the all-time best dive bar jukebox song? “Queen, “Bohemian Rhapsody.” Aside from the fact this song is just epic, Brian May [Queen’s lead guitarist] lived in the same area I grew up in as a child and most Christmases, when our family went to the local pantomime, he was often in the crowd. Aside from that hugely irrelevant fact, in just about every bar I have sat in, when the first chords start playing, there is an explosion of human activity that is probably the closest thing to the Big Bang that can be observed in humanity. There has never been a song that epitomizes the dive bar experience more. Everyone knows the words, when to bang their head, when to look at one another and scream out ‘Scaramouche’! It is an emotional roller coaster of a ride and has truly stood the test of time. RIP Freddie Mercury, you were a legend the world lost too soon.”
What drink should be banished and why? “I’m leaving this one alone.”
Name the first good drink you ever drank and where you had it. “In recent times, the drink that most stands out was an Old Fashioned that was made for me by the ladies and gents at Ward III in TriBeCa. It was shortly after I had moved to NYC, to re-join my wife in America, and I had just started a bartending job at the Smyth hotel that was down the block. I remember one night, shortly after I had finished training, I went with the guys from work there for a post-shift drink. A colleague of mine, Emily, recommended trying an Old Fashioned and it was effing delicious. I remember sitting there thinking ‘I want to make drinks like this.’ Needless to say, it was a moment of inspiration.”
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What book on cocktails, spirits or food is your go-to resource? “The Bar Book by Jeffrey Morgenthaler. This book has been my essential go-to since I first picked up a copy. At VNYL (Vintage New York Lifestyle), we run a very prep-heavy, culinary focused beverage program. This book is the foundation for the training of my prep guys I have hired to assist me, as well as the point of reference for my bartenders when they are researching new projects. It’s also an invaluable tool for my bar backs. The Bar Book is just a really comprehensive breakdown of the techniques, processes and equipment I need my guys to know when they are working here.”
Is it ever appropriate for a customer to ask for more olives for a Martini? “Of course—they can have as many as they like, within reason. The thing that really gets me, though, is when you turn around and you find someone sticking their grubby little fingers in the mize [mise en place]. Just ask. The worst that happens is I say no, but I don’t think that has ever happened to date.”
Do you ever drink cocktails with a meal? “If I am honest, very rarely. That being said, it all depends on the situation. If my wife, Lyssa, and I are out for dinner at a place that has a reputation for stellar cocktails then we will always imbibe at the bar before the meal. During the meal, however, we usually drink wine. It is always great in those situations to see what amazing drinks other bars and bartenders are putting out. In fact, some of my best inspiration has come from seeing how others interpret flavor, presentation and liquors.”
What drink are you most proud of creating? “The Milk Punches that I have made at my last couple of programs have always been a point of particular pride. I love the connection to the history and that it is attached to a drink that dates back to the 1600s. There is also the fact that whenever I am making a batch, I look at the primordial mess that I am about to clarify and think, ‘There is no way this will ever work….’ On more than a couple of occasions that has been the case, but it is always a beautiful moment when you get a perfectly clarified drink that tastes great.”
What is your favorite shot-and-a-beer combination? “Miller High Life and whiskey. Nuff said.”
What is the one tool that you always make sure to pack when you’re traveling for business? “Whenever I pack my roll-up to go away, I always make sure to carry a beautiful antique jigger my wife gave me one Christmas from the 1940s. It holds a huge amount of sentimental significance and is always a talking point whenever I pull it out.”
Gareth Howells is beverage director at the New York bar VNYL (Vintage New York Lifestyle).