Fashion

Anthropologie Denies Racially Profiling Customers. Former Employees Call B.S.

‘BLATANTLY LYING’

The fashion chain, owned by Urban Outfitters, denies using a code word to profile black shoppers. But online, former staff say otherwise.

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David Paul Morris/Bloomberg via Getty

Another fashion brand reportedly preaching inclusion online has been called out for its allegedly real-life racist practices.

Anthropologie, the retailer owned by Urban Outfitters known for its overly dainty selection of candles and cardigans, has been accused of profiling customers and not paying black content creators for their work. 

As first reported by the Instagram fashion watchdog account @DietPrada, Anthropologie’s June 1 Instagram post—a Maya Angelou quote and caption calling for “equality and empathy”—quickly became a place for former employees and shoppers to detail their experiences in stores.

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Black customers wrote about being followed around by hovering salespeople while shopping, and staff across the country and Canada alleged that management had a code name for people of color. “How are you going to stop racially profiling your ‘Nickys’?” one wrote. 

“I thought Chicago was the only ones [sic] who used ‘Nick’ as a form of saying ‘watch that black woman who just walked in.’ Fucking shame,” another former employee wrote.

In response on June 2 (also known as “Blackout Tuesday” on social media) Anthropologie announced it would close stores. “We’re committed to doing better—to being better—and it starts right now,” an Instagram graphic read.

Anthropologie also pledged a $100,000 donation to the United Negro College Fund. (The company did not respond to The Daily Beast’s request for comment.)

As @DietPrada also noted, the queer black model and content creator Lydia Okello shared screenshots of a conversation they had with an Anthropologie producer in May. (Okello uses they/them pronouns.)

The producer wanted to recruit Okello for an online campaign celebrating Pride Month, but when Okello gave their freelance rates, the producer said there was “no budget.” 

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On May 26th, I was contacted by a producer at @anthropologie to take part in a Pride campaign. I responded with my rates for the campaign requirements. The response was that there was no budget, but that the producer would be happy to email to discuss rates.⠀ ⠀ The email was a longer pitch, including a request for an advertisement on my Instagram page and 3-5 images for them to use wherever they would like. With no budget. ⠀ ⠀ The above are screenshots from our conversation, including a “nudge” in my DMs this week to respond to the email requests for free labour.⠀ ⠀ Throughout the interaction, I stated my price and was met with no compensation. “No Budget” means that I was approached with no intent to ever be paid for my time and labour, let alone my experiences as a Black queer person. Only after many messages/emails was there acknowledgement that I should be compensated. Even in that response, there was gaslighting. I stated my fees from the very first message.⠀ ⠀ This happens to Black creatives constantly. Especially in the fashion industry. We are made to feel that we ask for too much when we bring up fair compensation for labour. It is implied that we should be happy with what we get. Shouldn’t we just be happy that a big brand wants to work with someone like us?⠀ ⠀ I’ve been “paid” in exposure numerous times in the last 12 years as a style blogger. Which I now refuse to do. But, in this case, it is quite confounding that a multimillion dollar company would reach out to someone with “no budget”. Especially when it involves the Queer Black Voices™️ it would like to align itself with, and use in advertisements. Seems timely, no?⠀ ⠀ We need to hold brands accountable to their lip service. In fact, with BLM being a “hot topic” to a lot of corporations, this is going to happen FREQUENTLY. Folks will want to capitalize on Black bodies & Black labour for the lowest price possible, as they have for several hundred years. ⠀ ⠀ The final slide is a post from June 5 on the brand page. When Anthropologie says “black lives do matter” what does that mean? When they plan to diversify their workforce, is it this free Black labour?⠀ ⠀ #payblackcreatives #MyAnthropologie

A post shared by LYDIA OKELLO | they/them (@styleisstyle) on

“We need to hold brands accountable to their lip service,” Okello wrote. “In fact, with BLM being a ‘hot topic’ to a lot of corporations, this is going to happen FREQUENTLY. Folks will want to capitalize on Black bodies & Black labor for the lowest possible price, as they have for several hundred years.”

Emmy Rossum, an actress who starred in the Showtime series Shameless, voiced her anger in a tweet that read, “Also @UrbanOutfittrs and @FreePeople—I am now sorry that I wore so many of your stupid bralets in Shameless. I’m disgusted by your culture.” 

On Wednesday, the brand again took to Instagram to address the growing backlash.

“You may have seen that we have been challenged to be more transparent, unbiased, and fair in our stores and with our business practices,” a post read. The post went on to deny the allegation that stores used any term to profile shoppers “based on their race or ethnicity.”

Any employee found engaging in such behavior, the post said, would be subject to discipline “which may include termination.” The post added that sometimes “methods of compensation” for influencers “include product, a financial payment, or a combination of both.” 

Again, employees flooded the comments section, accusing the brand of lying to customers by denying the code name anecdotes. 

“I literally worked in your flagship store in NYC and was instructed to use this phrase,” one wrote. “Not a surprise that you would blatantly lie but still a bummer now that you’d like to be considered woke.”

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