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Benjamin Kemper followed the siren song of jamón ibérico from New York to Madrid, where he writes about the places that make him hungriest.
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This Tiny Country Is Overlooked as an Adventure Paradise
WORK UP AN APPETITEHere was a place where you could be jet-skiing in the Black Sea one day and heli-skiing down glaciated peaks the next—all in a country roughly the size of South Carolina.

Sevilla Isn’t the Sleepy City It Used to Be
IT’S STILL A BIG WORLDIt’s not all tapas and flamenco in the Andalusian capital, thanks to daring restaurants, revamped attractions, and next-level hotels that opened during the pandemic.

Madrid’s New ‘Frying Pan’ Plaza Leaves Some Locals Fuming
MAKEOVERFaced with a social media firestorm over Plaza de España’s $85 million makeover, city officials hold the line that the square is an architectural triumph.

Spain Has the World’s Best Ham, but Terrible Bacon. Why?
THAT WILL NOT DO, PIGSpain is a pork lover’s paradise, a land of chorizo, charcuterie, and melt-in-your-mouth jamón. So what’s with the sad, flaccid slices Spaniards pass off as bacon?

Hate Pretentious Wine Tastings? Visit This Country
THE REAL DEALLove good wine but hate tasting rooms? Head to Georgia, where family winemakers invite you in for epic homemade feasts and an array of hands-on winemaking experiences.

This Remote Island Off Africa Is Spain’s Best-Kept Secret
IT'S STILL A BIG WORLDA tropical wonderland of hikeable volcanoes, black-sand beaches, and sumptuous boutique hotels awaits in La Palma, whose nickname, “La Isla Bonita,” rings truer than ever.

A Must-See Side of Madrid Most Tourists Don’t Know Exists
IT'S STILL A BIG WORLDThree blue-collar districts across the river are bristling with phenomenal food, culture, and art. Just don’t call them “hipster.”

Partiers Are Renting Luxe Airbnbs in Madrid for Secret Raves
¡¿Qué?!It’s the worst-kept secret in Spain’s capital city—everybody knows somebody throwing an Airbnb party.

A Man Spent 60 Years Building a Strange and Sketchy Church
RISE OR FALLAn ex-monk spent 60 years building a temple to the Virgin Mary. Now everyone is wondering: What will happen to it when he’s gone?

This City Should Be Your First Stop in Spain Post-Pandemic
IT’S STILL A BIG WORLDWhile other destinations have been hibernating through the pandemic, this medieval jewel west of Madrid has been quietly glowing up.
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