New York Fashion Week’s Loud Message: Let’s Return to Glamour

Tadashi Shoji

Tadashi Shoji opted for a digital-only presentation and lookbook this season. The designer took a “borrowed from the boys” approach to his womenswear collection with menswear-inspired textiles, like pinstripes and chevron jacquard suiting, feminized with overlapping piecework and sensual slits. These were contrasted with more classic evening-wear dresses done with lace and embellishments. There were no traditional fashion rules here, but aren’t rules made to be broken? Kristopher Fraser

How Men Had Their Moment at New York Fashion WeekALL DRESSED UP

Sarah Shears, Kristopher Fraser, Dawn Ennis, Tim Teeman

Saint Sintra

Well, it was nice to be in a bar (no drinks, but still), and even if the show was extremely late even by Fashion Week’s notoriously tardy standards, Sintra Martins’ show was a weekend delight featuring garments in heavy orange mohair plaid and worsted calvary twills. The standout dress, a cotton wedding gown, resembled a fantastical paper cut out, constructed in weird spirals. This spoke to the strengths of all of Martins’ designs; construction, elegance, detail all in synch—and, unlike so many Fashion Week clothes, worth so much more than one glance on the runway. Even better, they still made you smile the day after. Tim Teeman

Dennis Basso

Dennis Basso has a penchant for ostentatious luxury, and his fall/winter 2022 collection stayed true to form. After two years of a seemingly endless pandemic, Basso like many New Yorkers has abandoned the idea of cloistering inside alone and the comfort fashion that went with it. His new collection is a celebration of maximalism and being seen. Bejeweled, feathered and fur garments graced every look, and jewel tones along with jewels adorned everything from jackets to evening wear. Sarah Shears

Kim Shui

Kim Shui’s new collection is a heady mix of playful pastels and lascivious gowns. The first half of the show was a color bomb mash-up of nubby tweeds patchworked with a 60s mod meets 80s vibe, followed by a sultry mix of see-through-nipple-baring lace ensembles along with skin-tight leather and bedazzled dresses in sheer, black, and browns. Sarah Shears